2. Using the course sandpaper (or a file or Sur-form plane), blunt the sharp leading edge of the ABD rear piece. This important so that it does not cut through the tape.
3. Press the 2" head onto the shaft on the end that has 1" bare and the ABD on the other end. Press firmly (or use a mallet) to insure that the shaft is fully inserted into the holes.
4. Use 3 or 4 (at minimum) pieces of strapping tape about 7" long, to attach the ABD rear end. Angle the tape to the shaft about 1" forward of the ABD. Wrap a short piece of tape around the shaft at the point where the tape touches the shaft. This will create a hollow cone shape with the small end towards the center of the bolt. [Some roller nut crossbows require more than a 1/2" length ABD to prevent the bolt getting stuck in the firing mechanism. If this is the case, wrap closed cell foam around the shaft in front the ABD and tape around it tightly the same diameter as the ABD about 1" wide. You will have to modify the fletch pattern to use them with this design. (Two or three extra precut foam discs may be used for this purpose, and may be purchased for a minimal extra cost.) Then tape the ABD on as before but using longer strips of tape. You can cover the rear assembly with duct tape at this time, if you like.
5. Using 3 or 4 pieces of strapping tape about 9" long attach the head in the same way. The only difference is that since the head is tapered, you will run the tape flat against the surface making a solid cone shape.
6. Cut a 1 1/2' x 9" rectangle from the thin foam sheet and punch out two foam discs
7. Place the 2 foam discs on the UHMW head, and using 3 or 4 pieces of strapping tape 10" long. Tape the foam onto the head in the same manner that you taped on the head. Wrap another piece of strapping tape around the blunt, covering the join between the foam and the UHMW.
8. Tightly wrap the 1 1/2" x 9" thin foam sheet twice around the head and foam discs. Tightly wrap a piece of the wide strapping tape about 6" long around the head.
9. Using 3 or 4 pieces of strapping tape 10" long. Tape the foam head again in the same way as you did in step 7.
10. Now tape the head assembly all the way back to the fiberglass shaft with duct tape. If you like, you can now wrap a piece in a contrasting color about 5" long around the head assembly.
The next step is to put fletching onto the rear of the bolt. This is optional, but recommended. (Some crossbows may have guides that would prevent the use of fletching.)
11. Mark two opposite points on the outside rear of the ABD rear end. It doesn't matter where, so long as you mark on the outer edge and the marks are directly opposite.
12. Cut out two of the card fletches for each bolt.
13. Using a hot glue gun (or small pieces of tape) attach the two fletches onto the cone shaped rear end so that the back (rounded end) touches the mark you made and the front is angled over about 1/4". Do the same for the second fletch on the opposite side. It doesn't matter which direction you angle the fletches, so long as they both go the same direction around the shaft (you want it to spin, not lift or dive).
14. Using about a 3" piece of the wide strapping tape, cover both fletches on one side. Press the tape against the rear piece and fletches by starting from the center and working outward towards the fletches. Be careful to press the tape flat against the base of the fletches, leaving no gap where they meet the ABD. It is not necessary to fold the tape over the outer edges of the fletches at this time. Do the same thing on the opposite side of the fletching. Trim the excess tape from around the fletches. You can now cover the individual fletches with duct tape in your favorite colors (put duct tape on the fletches only. Leave the rest of the rear covered in strapping tape only, as it has less friction).
15. Per SCA construction requirements, *bolt shafts and tails must be taped a solid base color (such as white, black, grey etc.) and should not be marked with stripes or cresting. Blunts must be taped a bright contrasting color. Fletching, if used, may be of any color. Taping an "X" on the striking surface of the blunt is not necessary unless required by local conventions.
*Because the back end of the bolt appears similar to the size of the blunt when in flight or rebounding off a fighter, it must be obvious which end is the blunt!
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